CROMOSOMI CORSARI (Pedra Longa, Baunei, Sardinia)


Notes: amazing clim very exposed on the sea. Attention to the quality of the rock in a little section of the route. Fantastic environment.

Access: From the car park follow a path leading to the south you forward on a narrow ledge. Having reached the end make a quick rappel of rings until the short bay at the base of the route (10 minutes)

Descent: until the S3 is possible even if with some acrobatics pendolum, get off on the route. You better retourn by foot, following the descent of Marinaio di Foresta along the normal route

1 pitch: traverse, little corner (5c+)
2 pitch: traverse, little corner, smooth slab (6a+/6b)
3 pitch: exposed traverse on good holds, spectacular (6b/6b+)
4 pitch: good horizontal holds (4c) be careful of the quality of the rock
5 pitch: grey slab (5b) be careful of the quality of the rock
6 pitch: overhang, hard traverse, amazing grey slab (6b)
7 pitch: technical grey wall (6b)

Gear: 316L stainless steel, close bolted

Material: a single rope or two, half, better in case of a retreat, helmet, 12 quickdraws, slings

Precautions: take the climb only if you have degree 6b. Possible pendulums of the second climber. On the crux traverse, to avoid these potential pendulums, you can integrate with some medium-cams. The climb is almost always exposed to sun. In the summer period NOT throw rocks in the bay, possible presence of sub!