SERENDIPITY (Valle dell’Orco)


First ascent from below: Maurizio Oviglia and Cecilia Marchi, June 2019 Last three pitches Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti July 2019

Difficulty: 6b Obligatory difficulty: 5c

Development to the top of the wall: 330m

Gear in place: the route is completely bolted, chains at the stops (thanks to Campeggio la Peschiera for supplying the material to equip the first pitch)

Gear needed: 12 quickdraws, some medium friends, 2 60m ropes, helmet recommended but not strictly essential Descent in double The route takes place in the free corridor between Via Mi Dissocio and Via delle Placche and Via di Roby. Plate climbing, often adherent, sometimes on an almost vertical wall. Reach the base of the central sector of the Sergent (see Climbing guide in Valle dell’Orco, South side).

On the far left, on a ledge, follow it up to a dry pine log with cord. Name written small.

P1 Climb the long, slightly lichen-like plaque, sometimes in adherence, up to S1 on a grassy ledge next to a large dry pine, 35m (6a).

P2 Go up the vertical wall passing two small roofs with a more difficult climb, going to the left end of the overhanging dihedral of the via delle plaque. Overcome the smooth plate with the help of tufts of grass for the feet (usual in Valle dell’Orco, the grass if caught with the whole hand does not tear) and reach the S2 in common with the Via delle Placche, 25m ( 6a +).

P3 Climb over the stop reaching the first bolt, then traverse gently to the left grabbing a providential blade that allows you to recover on a tuft at the base of a dihedral (6a). Or traverse immediately to the left and catch the blade (5c). Continue in the easy arched dihedral (two medium friends are useful) until S3 at the base of a vertical stretch, 20m (5c).

P4 Climb the wall to the right of via delle plaque, finding providential cleats and finally passing a roof and the next plaque up to S4 in common again with Via delle Placche (stop moved on the ledge more comfortable than the original), 20m (6b )

P5 definitely right diagonally for a plate and final blade, S5 on a small terrace, 20m (5b).

P6 Go up a nice slanting slit on the left ending with a small pine, S6 at the base of a nice smooth plate, 25m (5c).

P7 Go up the plate first on horizontal strips and then in adherence to the right up to the S7, 25m (5c).

P8 Continue until you reach an old bolt of the Via delle Placche, leave this on the left and continue directly on a beautiful tack plate, 45m (5c).

P9 Climb a vertical wall, then a difficult step where the plaque falls. Continue on a strip of clean rock between tufts of grass until the stop, 40m (6a +, one step)

P10 Continue on the beautiful wave plate until it rears up again. Avoid major difficulties with a small traverse on the right reaching the end of the street, 25m (6a).

Descent with four doubles (mandatory 60m ropes). From S10 to S8, from S8 to S7. Vertical descent for 57 meters up to a stop on the Via di Perucca.

From this another 60 m exactly to the starting terrace of the Via delle Placche. Go down a few meters (II degree) to the backpacks.)