News

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On this page I update you on all my activities as a climber and bolter of climbing routes, as well about important repetitions of routes

luglio 2021 – The Frame (Ulassai)  – With “Artemisia Gentileschi”,  I finished the bolting work of this crag. 21 routes from 5b to  8a, two project not still free.

luglio 2021 – Opera (Ulassai)  – With Il Gattopardo, bolted by Roberto Valdo Cortese, the work  are finished. 19 routes, three bolted for kids.

luglio 2021 – Doc Wall (Urzulei)  – Start to bolt a new crag in Genna Croce area. Bolted two routes, L’Abbraccio (6a+) and another one still unamed 6c+. The new crag is dedicate to Gianni Cattaino.

luglio 2021 – Le Ginestre (Urzulei)  – New crag between Genna Croce and Genna Silana, situate at 1000 meters of elevation. Old school style. RFor the moment 3 routes bolted. “Microgem” (6b+) and other two unamed not still climbed.

luglio 2021 – Codula Fuili (Cala Gonone)  – rebolted stainless steel 316 with glue bolts L’imposta (7b+).

giugno 2021 – Cadarese (Val d’Ossola)  – Opened a new routes, Rombo di Tuono, not still climbed free.

giugno 2021 – Piantonetto (Valle Orco)  – New route, bolted single pitch in a new crag. Name “Melange”, 7b. I sent the FFA the same day

giugno 2021 – Sergent (Valle Orco)  – New route, bolted single pitch on the right of Mary Poppins. Name “Big Wave”, 7b/b+, for the moment climbed only top rope, some years ago also by Giovanni Massari.

giugno 2021 – Sergent (Valle Orco)  – Rebolted 5.13, 7c+

giugno 2021 – Garibaldi (Sàrrabus)  – New route, a bolted single pitch on the right of  Via dei Camini. opened with Roberto Valdo Cortese. “Bad Boy” (6a)

giugno 2021 – Acquerello Magico (Cagliari)  – Complete rebolted of Oasis with a new start pitch. 6a max, three pitches. The new version of the route was climbed by Tatjana Goex  and Letizia Congiu

giugno 2021 – Opera (Ulassai)  – Bolted a new hard project, named “Il dio delle piccole cose”

giugno 2021 – Pentagramma (isili)  – Fionished the complete rebolting of the crag

maggio 2021 – Montezuma (Sàrrabus)  – Still a new one, “Kiss me nenna!” (6b+)

maggio 2021 – Punta Istiotta (Onifai)  – new route of 4 pitches opened together with Andrea Mannias, only two bolts on the route. 6c max, 6b obl, name “Fisiognomica”

maggio 2021 – Punta Istiotta (Onifai)  – new trad route opened with Andrea Mannias, “Alexander Platz” (6b+)

maggio 2021 – Piantonetto (Valle dell’Orco)  – A new crag with a new beautiful bolt route

maggio 2021 – Osso (Val d’Ossola)  – First free ascent of “Krumira” (6c+, trad)

3 maggio 2021 – Opera (Ulassai)  – Bolted a new route in Opera sector, Rp of Cerbero in new Labirinto sector (bolting in Ulassai with Tatjana Goex photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

2 maggio 2021 – La Poltrona Alta (Cala Gonone)  – Rebolted of the classic Cafè Creme (6c) and opening of new Il terzo Incomodo (6b+) (Cafè Creme photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

28 aprile 2021 – Pentagramma (Isili)  – Rebolted other two routes (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

24-25 aprile 2021 – Arcadio (Cala Gonone)  – Opened three new routes, Agonista Talpa (6c), Una vita di corsa (6a+), Okodokki (6a+) (photo © Cecilia Marchi)

22 aprile 2021 – Montezuma (Quartucciu)  – Opened Yuri Cherchi and rebolted Ti pozzu Toccai (photo © Giovanni Manconi)

20 aprile 2021 – Pentagramma (Isili)  – Rebolted other two routes (photo © Cecilia Marchi)

17 aprile 2021 – Ombre Rosse (Iglesias)  – Rebolted Bonjour Tristesse and belay anchor of L’Alpinista (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

16 aprile 2021 – Giardini Sospesi (Cagliari)  – Rebolted L’amico del Giaguaro (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

14 aprile 2021 – Isili   – Restyling of other 3 routes in  Pentagramma sector (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

12 aprile 2021 – Giardini Sospesi (Cagliari)  – Richiodata Professor Ampex (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

1 – 8 aprile 2021 – Isili   – Restyling of 6 routes in Pentagramma Area (photo © Cecilia Marchi)

5 aprile 2021 – Millennium (Cala Gonone)  – Completely Rebolting of Mata Durga (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

28 marzo 2021 – Millennium (Cala Gonone)  – Opened new route “Semaforo Rotto” (6b) and the extension of Giardino dell’Eden (6c) (photo © Cecilia Marchi)

24 marzo 2021 – Giardini Sospesi (Cagliari)  – Rebolted Via dello Yogurt and changed some points of Farfalla Impressionista (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

15 march 2021 – Ulassai (Ogliastra)  – Bolted some new routes in the new sector Opera (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

14 march 2021 – Millennium (Cala Gonone)  – Rebolted Testardo in  316L stainless steel, titanium anchor, finished Rhapsody (7a) (Ph Maurizio Oviglia)

13 marzo 2021 – Arcadio (Cala Gonone)  – Richiodata in parte VB, Mr Tossina, Un Panino e Via in inox 316L

11 march 2021 – Giardini Sospesi (Cagliari)  – Rebolted completely Pericolosamente Insieme, 316L stainless steel

8 march 2021 – Tancau (Lotzorai)  – New granite sector, named GattoArancio. Opened three new routes  (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

5 march 2021 – Giardini Sospesi (Cagliari)  – Rebolted Furto con Scasso in inox 316L stainless steel (Matteo Sessini photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

3 march 2021 – Chinatown (Domusnovas)  – New route in Broadway area, LaLaland (6a) (photo © Cecilia Marchi)

27 february 2021 – Arcadio (Cala Gonone)  – Rebolting of  Brod Oy and anchor of VB (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

26 february 2021 – Ulassai  – Opened 5 new routes ina a new sector with Tatjana Goex (Tatjana Goex, photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

24 february 2021 – Corvo Solitario (Isili)   – Finish to bolt Support Bubble and photo session with Matteo Sessini.

21 febbraio 2021 – Millennium (Cala Gonone)  – restyling of the routes: Adamo, Mare Aperto, senza nome, yoddu li e dulli o, new route (photo © Cecilia Marchi)

19 febbraio 2021 – The Frame (Ulassai)  – first free ascent from Marco Bussu of Escher. Bolted a new route in a new crag (Marco Bussu photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

17 febbraio 2021 – Giardini Sospesi (Cagliari)  – Rebolted in stainless steel Off Limits with indipendent exit, changed the anchor of Anfetamine now with inox carabiner (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

14 febbraio 2021 – Giardini Sospesi (Cagliari)  – New route at Strapiombi sector, the spectacular “il peso della farfalla”, 6b+ (local grades) (photo © Tajana Goex)

13 febbraio 2021 – Giardini Sospesi (Cagliari)  – Rebolted Diabolik Skeletric & l’amico Bruscu, 4c (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

11 febbraio 2021 – Millennium (Cala Gonone)  – Rebolted the route Mamuthone, 6c+, Millennium Cave (photo © Cecilia Marchi)

9 febbraio 2021 – The Frame (Ulassai)  – Bolted the new route Andy Warhol (6b+/6c), first free ascent of Pollock and Mirò by Filippo Manca (Pollock, photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

7 febbraio 2021 – Millennium (Cala Gonone)  – Opened a new route, Casus Belli (6b+) and cleaned Crisi Al Buio that I rebolted last weeks (Casus Belli, photo © Cecilia Marchi)

4 febbraio 2021 – Corvo Solitario (Isili)  – Check of the routes rebolted, 27 maggio 1926 is down graded to 6b+ for change of the line  (Corvo Solitario, photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

1 febbraio 2021 – Giardini Sospesi (Cagliari)  – Changed the belay of Repetita Juvant, and new belay also for Fuori Orario   (Repetita Juvant, photo © Tatjana Goex)

29/30 gennaio 2021 – Corvo Solitario (isili)  – Finished to rebolt the sector with stainsless steel bolts. 13 routes rebolted and 5 new: one year of work   (rebolting Husky © Maurizio Oviglia)

28 gennaio 2021 – Cagliari  – New route opened and climbing free by Tatjana Goex, the name is “Gocce di cristallo”, 6b. After we moved on the right side where I opened “Non è ancora Tempo”, that I climbed free today, grade aroun 6b   (Gocce di Cristallo © Maurizio Oviglia)

24 gennaio 2021 – Cagliari  – Rebolted Big Tonio, now is longer and the last part is the same of Fessura degli istruttori. Changed the belay of Fuori Orario and 13 marzo, now in 316 stainless steel. Changed the name to Franabile Piccante, the new name is Casu Marzu,  7a  (Casu Marzu © Maurizio Oviglia)

23 gennaio 2021 – Ombre Rosse (Iglesias)  – Rebolted the central section (crux) of Ouverture. Now the route follow the original line and is 6b.  (Ombre Rosse, foto archivio © Maurizio Oviglia)

22 gennaio 2021 – Corvo Solitario (Isili)  – Rebolted In a silent Way and the first part of di Husky  (Husky in the nineties, foto archivio © Maurizio Oviglia)

21 gennaio 2021 – Cagliari – I finished to rebolt Anarcobaleno. In the same time Marco Bussu send the first free ascent of Franabile Piccante, not still clean. May be with some repetition the route become perfect (Franabile Piccante, foto © Maurizio Oviglia)

19 gennaio 2021 – Arrampicantro (Domusnovas) – I bolted a new route on the left of Nuovo Sole, named “Camomilla”. Difficulty around 7b, still not climbed free. Added a new bolt on the final run out of  Falki Sekki  (foto © Maurizio Oviglia)

18 gennaio 2021 – Cagliari – Changed Patrick Gambadilegno belay, now little bit higher. Tatjana Goex bolted a new route on the left of Diabolik, named “Ossi di Seppia”. Check of the belay of Fessura degli Istruttori that I placed some days ago (Ossi di Seppia, foto © Maurizio Oviglia)

17 gennaio 2021 – Cagliari – Bolted a new route on the right of La Sassarite, named “Le Onde”. Start to rebolt Anarcobaleno (photo © Cecilia Marchi)

14 gennaio 2021 – Cagliari – I changed two bolts onTerapia d’Urto, two on Patrick Gambadilegno and I changed the first point of Fuori Orario. I changed also the belay of Fessura degli Istruttori, now is lower (foto © Maurizio Oviglia)

13 january 2021 – Millennium Cave (Cala Gonone) – The first pitch of Millennium has been re-bolted, now run independent at the beginning and at the end. The pitch takes the name of “Crisi al buio” while to make the upper part of Millennium, as has been the custom for years, is better to climb the pitch known as “La legge delle Chiodande”. This I will equip it in titanium next time, for now I have added a 316 ring to the belay eliminating a bunch of unnecessary ropes. – (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

12 gennaio 2021 – Arrampicantro (Domusnovas) – Repositioning of the belays and retracing of some routes after the laying of the containment nets that prevented the achievement of the original belays. Even the difficulty of the Tropicoasi and “Il Caffè mi rende nervoso has now changed”. The grade of Free Tibet and Pastamatic remains unchanged, even with the new stop. (foto © Maurizio Oviglia)

10 january 2021 – Cagliari – Finished to rebolt Magico Alverman, rebolted Disorientamento Notturno. Tweaks on Franabile Piccante

9 january 2021 – Cagliari – Opened”Franabile Piccante” and start to rebolt Magico Alverman – (photo © Maurizio Oviglia)

7 january 2021 – Cagliari -Free ascent of the new three routes, English Girl (6a/6a+), Back Stage (5c) and Artemisia (6a) – (photo © Cecilia Marchi)

4 january 2021 – Cagliari – Bolted a new sector. Three new routes, English Girl, Back Stage and Artemisia – (photo ©Tatjana Goex)

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